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Aesthetic Dermatology

Making Sense of Cosmeceuticals

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Cosmeceuticals Image

Dermatology thought leader Hilary Baldwin, MD helps us make sense of cosmeceuticals by sharing her approach to them, including how to define them and evaluate their utility.

On a funny note, Dr. Baldwin confesses being a skeptic and a hypocrite when it comes to cosmeceuticals. She remains skeptical about some of the science but at the same time uses 5 cosmeceutical products herself. We love her honesty!

What is a cosmeceutical?

The term was accredited to Albert Kilgman in 1984 as the ill-defined realm between cosmetics and prescription skincare products. Like a cosmetic, it is topically applied; like a drug, it contains ingredients that influence biologic functioning of the skin.

Different meaning to different groups

Fortunately for the FDA, they have no comment (and we would prefer to keep it that way!). Cosmetic companies consider them to be well-studied actives with proven efficacy. For most dermatologists, they are not well studied, they have some data behind them and are products that may or may not live up to claims (some of which are quite grandiose!). Cosmeticdermatologists on the other hand, feel a little bit different and think these are products that may alter wound healing and may prolong the effects of cosmetic procedures. Patients, however, consider cosmeceuticals to be miracle cures, which Dr. Baldwin believes is the problem and where a disconnect exists. In the quest for medical cures, we don’t want patients to be dissatisfied and frustrated…and poor. It is unlikely that topicals, or at least a single topical, can fully address the complex process and major issues that causes the aging appearance, such as:

  • Pervasive cumulative sun damage
  • Loss of hormones (particularly estrogens)
  • Cell senescence
  • Fat depletion
  • Damage to DNA
  • Repetitive muscle movement
  • Genetics
  • Gravity

Dr. Baldwin notes that when patients come into the office, they have a couple of specific requests: “Do I need a face lift yet?”, “What can you do to fix my face?”. Sometimes they even ask if there is some magic cream they can put on their face to make them look less tired. Dr. Baldwin suggests to her patients to think of their face as an old couch in their living room that they no longer care for. Do they no longer care for it because it is sagging and actually has structural abnormalities, or do they not like it because the slipcovers are torn and stained? When we talk about cosmeceuticals, what we are talking about is slipcover repair, we are not talking about sagging skin because cosmeceuticals may be able to handle the drying on the sofa but they are not going to help with the sagging of the sofa.

Why do dermatologists need to be well-informed?

The average U.S. woman uses 15 different cosmetic products each day. If you figure that each of them contains 10-50 ingredients, the average woman is putting an awful lot of chemicals on her face every day, and it should be something that actually works, is safe, and non-irritating.

The truth is that patients dolike to use cosmeceuticals as feel they are doing something for themselves. Cosmeceuticals can make retinoids more tolerable and effective and can prolong or improve the results of cosmetic procedures.

Dr. Baldwin believes it is the job of dermatologists to help patients make reasonable choices and manage their expectations. How often does a patient come to you with a bunch of pieces of papers from magazines and newspapers and ask you about all these miracle cures? Or bring you a before and after picture saying, “Look at how much better she looks in the after picture” which is clearly a photographic cure, or perhapsthere is actually a cure there, but we can make no judgements based on these photographs which are just rampantin the magazines patients are looking at.

The fear of wrinkles, coupled with the fear of procedures, make some of Dr. Baldwin’s patients say that “they are looking for something better than Botox”. But is there a topical that is superior to fillers and neuromodulating agents? The magazines say there is…so it must be true, and then we have “friends” in the media who tell us every day there are products out there, one on Monday, a completely different one on Tuesday, yet a different one on Wednesday that will be life changing.

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Perioral Combination Pearls from the Expert – Joel Cohen, MD

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Perioral Combination Patient Image

Source: Next Steps in Derm

At the 16th Annual ODAC Dermatology, Aesthetics and Surgical Conference held January 18th-21st, 2019 in Orlando, FL, longtime meeting Vice Chair Dr. Joel L. Cohen from Denver Colorado, spoke on perioral combination therapy. His presentation outlined his approach to perioral rejuvenation with one main theme – combination treatment, combination treatment, combination treatment. Simply put, combination treatment for perioral rejuvenation yields the most optimal results.

Dr. Cohen’s Approach

Dr. Cohen’s approach to perioral rejuvenation begins by dividing his work into its requisite parts. If the patient has excessive animation, toxins are recommended. If the patient has only a few superficial etched lines, fillers are recommended. If the patient has more significant or many perioral rhytides, laser resurfacing is the tool of choice – but he emphasizes full-field erbium over fractional options for significant etched-lines (see figure 1). Overall, all three should be considered individually or in combination to yield the best results. A major take home point regarding perioral rhytides is that fillers and toxins are not the primary treatment for this condition — and patients with etched-lines on the upper lip really need laser resurfacing.

His presentation also highlighted the need to address the entire perioral area when treating cutaneous lip etching – such as fillers in the nasolabial folds, antero-medial cheek, secondary smile lines, marionette area, and pre-jowl sulcus.

When addressing the mucosal lips as far as lip volume, it is of the utmost importance to make sure patients have a realistic expectation of results. Dr. Cohen prefers to use the Merz lip fullness scale, one of the scales that he co-authored. With this scale, no patient should jump from a zero to a four. Patients should move one or two grades on the scale in order to keep the result looking natural – and to be honest, it often isn’t even realistic for someone with really skinny lips to augment to full grade 4 lips, the anatomy just doesn’t accommodate that type of change.

It’s also important to note that mucosal lip-augmentation often results in neo-collagenesis over time.  Therefore, it is important to get volume and proportions right in the first place, and not just simply squirt a lot of volume all over the lip or even uniformly throughout the lip. The medial lip should be fuller than the lateral lip.  And the lip should have tubercles of projection points.

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Platelet-Rich Plasma for Skin Rejuvenation

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PRP Injection in Patient

Source: Next Steps in Derm

Dr. Deirdre Hooper, an expert aesthetic and medical dermatologist, discussed the emerging use of Platelet-rich Plasma in the treatment of alopecia and skin rejuvenation at the 16th Annual ODAC Dermatology, Aesthetics and Surgical Conference. Dr. Nikhil Shyam shares his takeaways and pearls from this lecture.

Platelet-rich plasma (PRP) is rapidly gaining popularity amongst dermatologists for its potential use in treating hair loss, acne scarring and facial rejuvenation. However, there is significant variability in the processing of PRP and there are currently no established treatment protocols.

Evidence for PRP in Treating Hair Loss and Skin Rejuvenation

  • The literature review for the use of PRP in androgenetic alopecia shows significant benefit without any serious complications. However, the data also reveals wide ranging processing systems for PRP and treatment protocols.
  • PRP may be used topically or intradermally in combination with fractional ablative laser resurfacing to enhance skin rejuvenation and acne scarring with faster recovery between treatments.
  • PRP has also been shown to improve the cosmetic outcome of striae with high patient satisfaction.

Practical Tips for Using PRP in Hair Loss:

  • Use about 5 – 7 ml PRP
  • Inject intradermally or in the deep subcutaneous tissue
  • Inject 0.3 to 0.5 cc per area using a 27- or 30-gauge needle
  • Typically perform 3-4 treatment sessions every 4-6 weeks
  • Maintenance treatments every 6 to 9 months

Practical Tips for Using PRP in Skin Rejuvenation:

  • Apply topical numbing medication to the target areas.
  • Inject PRP using a 1 cc syringe and a 25 or 27 gauge, 1.5” cannula.
  • Utilize a fanning technique to inject in the problem area.
  • Alternatively, use a 30-31-gauge needle and inject intradermal blebs.
  • Perform 3-4 treatment sessions in 4-6 week intervals.
  • Maintenance treatments every 6 to 9 months.

Patient Instructions After Treatment:

  • May experience some burning or stinging 5-15 minutes post procedure.
  • May result in potential “bleeding” appearance and recommend patients bring hats.
  • Avoid strenuous exercise for about 24 hours post procedure.

Overall, PRP is increasingly being utilized for hair loss, scarring and facial rejuvenation. Currently, PRP appears to be safe with no long-term side effects noted. It may be used synergistically with existing treatment options with added benefit. Further research is required to establish the optimal PRP processing technique and to establish standardized treatment protocols.

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Facial Anatomy: ODAC Coverage with Susan Weinkle, MD

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Patient receiving injections

Source: Next Steps in Derm

This information was presented by Dr. Susan Weinkle at the 16th Annual ODAC Dermatology, Aesthetics and Surgical Conference held January 18th-21st, 2019 in Orlando, FL. The highlights from her lecture and live demonstrations were written and compiled by Dr Nikhil Shyam.

Dr. Susan Weinkle, an expert in the field of aesthetic and surgical dermatology, shares important anatomical concepts to consider when using neurotoxins and fillers safely.

The face can be split into 3 zones – the upper 1/3rd, the middle 1/3rd and the lower 1/3rd. Knowing the important vessels and nerves in each zone as well as their corresponding depth in the skin is crucial in order to minimize injury and utilize a safe technique when injecting neurotoxins and fillers.

Figure 1: D corresponds to areas where deeper injections are safer to avoid vasculature and nerves. S corresponds to areas where superficial (intradermal injections) are safer to avoid vasculature and nerves. Vessels shown are cartoon depictions of some of the more common arteries including the supraorbital, supratrochlear, superficial temporal, facial and superior and inferior labial arteries. Also depicted are the supraorbital, infraorbital and mental foramen that are located along the medial limbus.

Important Landmarks for the Upper 1/3rd of the Face

  • A line drawn vertically along the medial limbus denotes the anatomical locations of the supraorbital, infraorbital and mental foramen.
  • The supraorbital notch or foramen is the exit aperture for the supraorbital neurovascular bundle (NVB). While the vessels here initially lie deep in the skin, they become more superficial about 1.5 cm superior to the supraorbital foramen as they supply the forehead.
  • The supratrochlear NVB lies about 8-12 mm medial to the supraorbital NVB. The vessels are similarly deep initially and gradually become more superficial as they traverse superiorly to supply the forehead.
  • The supraorbital nerve, after exiting through its foramen, runs laterally and then superiorly about 1 cm medial to the temporal fusion line. It lies deep within the skin in this region.

Key Concepts for Upper 1/3rd Facial Injections and more.

Male vs. Female Aesthetic Consultation – ODAC Dermatology Conference

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Terrence Keaney Male Aesthetics at ODAC

Source: Dermatology News

The first time a man walks in for an aesthetic consultation, he probably doesn’t know what to expect, according to Terrence Keaney, MD, a dermatologist in private practice in Arlington, Va. And he may not even be sure what he’s looking for.

However, he probably knows what he doesn’t like about his appearance. When men are questioned, the three areas they are most concerned about is their hairline, their eyes, and their jawline, said Dr. Keaney, speaking at the Orlando Dermatology Aesthetic and Clinical Conference.

It’s important to evaluate men differently, not just for anatomic differences from women, but also for behavioral and psychological factors unique to men as aesthetic patients, he noted.

ODAC Dermatology Conference Returns to Orlando, Florida

By | Aesthetic Dermatology, Medical Dermatology, ODAC Sessions, Patient Care, Surgical Dermatology | No Comments
Orlando Florida Hotel

Source: Dermatology Times

The Orlando Dermatology Aesthetic & Clinical Conference (ODAC), formerly known as Orlando Derm, is scheduled for January 18-21 at the JW Marriott in Orlando.

This year’s meeting will open with presentations from physicians who will address advances in treating skin of color, hot topics in surgical dermatology and cutaneous malignancy, the latest on photodynamic therapy, and a year in review from the Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, among others.

Drs. Eric Bernstein and Jason Pozner will host a panel discussion on “My Top Picks for Laser and Energy Based Treatments.” And, Dr. Joel Cohen will give an overview of facial arterial supply.

During the general session on Saturday, Jan. 19, Dr. Brian Berman will address managing urticaria, which will be followed by talks by Dr. Deirdre Hooper on platelet rich plasma for hair growth and skin rejuvenation; Dr. Andrew Alexis on keloids and disorders of hyperpigmentation in skin of color; and, Drs. Bernstein and Pozner will address advances in non-surgical skin tightening.

On Sunday, January 20, Dr. Jean Bolognia will open the day’s general session with a review of advances in systemic therapies for melanoma.

For more information, visit ODAC online at https://orlandoderm.org.

Want to expand aesthetic dermatology business? Appeal to men

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Terrence Keaney Male Aesthetics at ODAC

Source: Dermatology Times

Bringing more men into an aesthetic dermatology practice can expand the patient population, increase business revenue, and pay long-term dividends in terms of patient loyalty and repeat business.

But men aren’t like women when it comes to aesthetic concerns, so the strategies used to market your aesthetic offerings to female patients might miss the mark with men, cautioned Terrence Keaney, MD.

Men are less cosmetically savvy and need more upfront education and counseling, Dr. Keaney said at the 2018 Orlando Dermatology Aesthetic and Clinical Conference.

“I spend more time explaining therapies and what might be best for them,” he noted. “I explain the scientific rationale and treatment mechanisms so they will be more comfortable.” Making sure they understand is important, because “men often nod and don’t ask questions.”

The extra effort up front can pay off.

“The beauty of men is when they get a great result and are happy with you, men are very physician loyal. Once they get a great result, they’re yours forever,” said Dr. Keaney, an assistant clinical professor of dermatology at George Washington University, Washington, and a private practice dermatologist in Arlington, Va.

Cost is the leading deterrent for men to embrace aesthetic procedures, a factor that also ranks first among women. Men are also concerned that results will not look natural and want information about safety and side effects, Dr. Keaney said. “These deterrents can be overcome with proper education and counseling.”

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Nasal Reconstruction After Surgery

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Explore By Region

Source: Dermatology Times

Options for repairing nasal defects after skin cancer surgery should be based on location, size and depth of the defect, as well as patient preference.

“If the defect is centrally located in the alar groove, you may want natural healing to occur,” says Joel L. Cohen, M.D., associate clinical professor of dermatology at the University of Colorado in Denver, and director of AboutSkin Dermatology in Greenwood Village and Lone Tree, Colo. He spoke with Dermatology Times prior to his presentation on skin cancer nasal reconstruction at the recent Orlando Dermatology Aesthetic & Clinical Conference (ODAC) in Miami.

“In such a case, the natural concavity is often recapitulated by simply letting the skin granulate, without the need for any sutured repair.”

However, in many instances of nasal reconstruction, dermatologists have to decide which procedure will achieve the best aesthetic outcome and also, the level of wound care that can be managed by the patient.

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Laser Resurfacing for Minimizing Post Surgery Scars

By | Aesthetic Dermatology, Medical Dermatology, ODAC Sessions, Patient Care, Surgical Dermatology | No Comments
Adam Friedman, MD at ODAC Dermatology Conference

Source: Dermatology News

In his practice, Joel L. Cohen, MD, spends a good part of his day doing Mohs surgery, “with the goal of cancer removal, and after surgery, having the patient look good,” he said at the Orlando Dermatology Aesthetic and Clinical Conference.

“Having resurfacing in my practice has allowed me to treat not only wrinkles and etched lines, but also help skin cancer patients by blending and minimizing their skin cancer scars,” said Dr. Cohen, an aesthetic dermatologist and Mohs surgeon in private practice in Denver.

For example, one of his patients was a kindergarten teacher who had a large rotation flap scar on her cheek after excision of a melanoma in situ. The children asked her about it all the time during the 2 months after the surgery, and she decided to come in for some laser sessions. “With three ablative fractional laser sessions, she really looked great just 3 months later and wasn’t even interested in wearing makeup at that point.”

Resurfacing in his practice using a variety of lasers is very helpful, Dr. Cohen said. He published a study in November that compared pulse dye laser, CO2 ablative fractional lasers, or a combination of both for modification of scars following Mohs surgery (J Drugs Dermatol. 2016 Nov 1;15[11]:1315-9).

The prospective, multicenter study revealed that although both monotherapy approaches were safe and effective, the combination of pulse dye laser and fractional ablative laser offered some synergy that was preferred by patients.

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